A BMW Tour of the Back Roads of West Virginia

Again in the beginning of March 2020, it was changing into obvious that the brand new coronavirus would trigger main disruptions within the U.S., each socially and economically. Right here in Maryland, we have been advised early on to “shelter in place” and keep away from contact with different individuals. As citizen, I instantly determined to spend a day “sheltering in a transferring place,” specifically my 2013 BMW 335i convertible. I packed up a day’s value of sandwiches and sodas, topped off my tank with fuel from the lawnmower can, and headed for the wilds of West Virginia.

I used to be not anticipating to get close to to anybody. Nonetheless, I used to be shocked to see how little site visitors there was on the highways as I headed towards West Virginia.

After an hour and a half, the interstates had disappeared, and I discovered myself on this little highway. It was straight and flat—fairly uncommon for West Virginia!

Simply 3 days after the official starting of Spring, the forsythia and dogwoods have been wonderful. It was solely within the mid-thirties, however the day regarded promising.

A Bridge Not Far Sufficient

Of all of the rivers within the U.S., the Cacapon River is my favourite. It’s peaceable and unspoiled, and rising up I canoed it many occasions with my father. Fittingly, the Native American phrase “cacapon” means “drugs waters.”

West Virginia is a splendidly scenic place. Views akin to this one, with Cacapon Mountain within the background, pop up round each nook.

Right here, the mountain and the river handle to coexist simply sufficient to permit room for a slender highway. Main flooding in 2018 eroded about half the width of the highway right here, but it surely has since been repaired.

It’s not straightforward to seek out Yellow Spring, WV on a map or in individual. (Search for the put up workplace that shares its constructing with a NAPA automobile components retailer.) The Yellow Spring Mill, which operated from 1896 to 1990, produced 30 to 40 tons of animal feed every day. The constructing nonetheless accommodates its varied grain elevators, hoppers, threshers, and even a molasses mixer.

My route for this journey was tailored from the November/December 2019 situation of RoadRunner Journal. It handed by the Capon Lake Whipple-Murphy Truss Bridge, which is the oldest metal-truss bridge nonetheless in existence in West Virginia. Its historical past is something however simple.

Since 1838, a wood coated bridge had carried the Northwestern Turnpike throughout the South Department of the Potomac River, simply west of Romney, WV. Through the Civil Conflict, Romney modified palms between Accomplice and Union forces roughly 56 occasions. Throughout their ultimate retreat, the Confederates burned the coated bridge, thereby disrupting a serious journey route for the Union Military for the rest of the warfare and past.

A alternative bridge was in-built 1874, utilizing the most recent iron-truss expertise developed by Squire Whipple and J.W. Murphy. It had two lengthy spans and did simply high quality till late in 1936, when a automobile leaving Romney managed to run smack into the aspect of the primary span, knocking it off its abutment. The automobile fell into the South Department, adopted shortly by the bridge span. Not lengthy after, a driver coming from the opposite path failed to note the lacking part of bridge and drove straight off the top, becoming a member of the calamity within the river beneath. Astonishingly, the Hampshire Evaluation famous that “the one harm was a damaged leg, and it was a wood damaged leg.” (The bridge is seen within the distance within the interval picture.)

A brand new concrete bridge quickly went up outdoors of Romney, and the remaining span of the Whipple-Murphy Truss bridge was disassembled, moved 18 crow-fly miles to Capon Lake, and reassembled there—midway throughout the Cacapon River. The engineers used an outdated, leftover Pratt Truss bridge part to finish the crossing. The Pratt part was falling aside by 1991 (with no loss to life or wood limb), and it was eliminated. What was left is now a scenic pedestrian walkway.

Historical past is sort of by no means simple.

Arduous Occasions in a Arduous-Luck State

As I used to be strolling again to the affected person 335i, I noticed the ruins of this outdated riverside home. I think that another flood would be the finish of it.

A crumbling stone wall sits just a bit methods previous the home ruins. A equally fancy stone home might have as soon as stood larger up the hill, however I might see no indicators of it.

Additional alongside Freeway 259, I discovered the Hebron Church. German immigrants worshipped right here within the unique log church as early as 1786. The present Greek Revival church was in-built 1849 and continues to carry providers to this present day.

Did I point out that the BMW was working completely? It appeared joyous to flee its shelter-in-place storage for some strong train.

Approaching Wardensville, my “route circuitous” proved fortuitous, and I used to be rewarded with this view:

With some research, I realized that this home was in-built 1778 by Nicholas Switzer. A couple of years later, he married Barbara Michael and so they raised 21 (!) kids. The bottom ground of the home was initially simply that—grime. Apparently the Switzers would herd their cattle into the primary ground through the winter to assist warmth the home! Did George Washington ever sleep right here? Nicely, type of: Earlier than the stone mansion was constructed, there was a log cabin, and a younger George stayed there a minimum of as soon as whereas working as a surveyor on this space.

Driving by West Virginia, deserted buildings are a typical sight. These have been simply utility sheds of some type, however their weathered look match proper into the naked, winter-like setting.

Small farms in just about each state have had a tough time, even lengthy earlier than the coronavirus, and none so greater than in West Virginia.

I don’t know what this lengthy construction was used for. It extends roughly 140 toes. Anybody care to hazard a guess?

Throughout the highway, and on the opposite aspect of Sperry Run, lie the ruins of what was in all probability a sawmill. It presently homes just a few American automobiles from the Nineteen Fifties. Within the second image, I’m fairly certain that’s a 1954 Chevrolet Belair. (I’m nonetheless on the lookout for a barn-find Aston Martin, Jaguar, or Mercedes…)

A Misplaced River

The Cacapon River could also be my favourite waterway within the U.S., however the Misplaced River in West Virginia is one among my favourite phenomena. The river winds its approach northeast by Hardy County for 33 miles, from Brocks Hole (close to West Virginia’s southern border with Virginia) to 4 miles southwest of Wardensville. Alongside its approach, the Misplaced River usually seems to be like this:

Over thousands and thousands of years, the Misplaced River carved a slender chasm by Sandy Ridge within the Appalachians. Within the course of, it created the Hanging Rock Anticline, so named for the spectacular Hanging Rock formation.

Between Baker and Wardensville, the Misplaced River decides it’s had sufficient—and it simply disappears!

The disappearing act baffled Native Individuals, frontiersmen, and settlers for hundreds of years till geologists discovered that the Misplaced River goes underground for simply over 2 miles and at last reappears above floor on the opposite aspect of Sandy Ridge—because the Cacapon River!

There’s a hamlet in West Virginia named for the Misplaced River, that includes a basic retailer, motel, and some homes. Close by, I noticed the ruins of the outdated A.M. Snider gristmill. Nobody appears to know when it was constructed, how lengthy it operated, or anything concerning the place. A glance by the window recommended that exploration contained in the outdated constructing could be perilous: Be aware the ground and the damaged beam specifically!

Solely in West Virginia…

The city of Rio (pronounced “Rye-Oh”) has been round since a minimum of 1826. It was named after the close by North River, with “Rio” being the Spanish phrase for river. This one-room schoolhouse is now getting used as a Baptist Sunday College.

In fact, I used to be on the lookout for the world-famous landmark often called the Rio Turtle. There are not any indicators indicating the place it’s, so I needed to search alongside the river for a bit. This spot regarded promising:

However the massive rock within the distance turned out to be a Rio Whale and never the Rio Turtle.

Earlier than lengthy I noticed the true Rio Turtle and scrambled down the riverbank to get a greater look. Native residents have been portray the turtle since 1985, when the big rock washed into the river throughout a serious flood.

Right here’s a greater look, courtesy of Tommy Warshaw’s glorious picture from Flickr:

The climb again as much as the BMW regarded (and felt) quite a bit steeper after I was there. However that’s what occurs whenever you attain my age!

Any Fort in a Storm

Right here is my favourite picture from the journey. It evokes a previous period of farmhouses sitting proudly on hilly properties, now gone to spoil. You possibly can nearly sense the despair that accompanied the decline of this once-thriving farm.

Wanting extra intently, the farmhouse has a really uncommon entrance entrance, with an higher arch and three separate doorways. I’ve by no means seen one other prefer it.

Do you ever sense that you just’re being watched? It occurs to me quite a bit, generally as a result of I’m simply feeling paranoid, however different occasions as a result of I am being watched! Apparently somebody continues to be utilizing the outdated farm for grazing cattle.

How’s this for rural handiwork?

I’d been following Grassy Lick Street for a lot of miles, and ultimately it dead-ended at Route 50 (the outdated Northwestern Turnpike), simply outdoors of Romney. The Wilson-Wodrow-Mytinger home is the oldest on the town and really contains three separate homes, standing shut collectively. The oldest dates to someday between 1730 and 1760. Did I point out the gorgeous dogwood timber?

Romney was initially often called Pearsall’s Flats, named for brothers John and Job Pearsall who settled right here someday earlier than 1738. At the beginning of the French and Indian Wars in 1754, Native American Indian raids pressured many settlers to desert their properties and farms and to maneuver additional east for security. The Virginia Home of Burgesses directed Colonel George Washington to construct a sequence of forts from North Carolina to New York to defend British pursuits. The outcomes turned often called Washington’s Chain of Forts—ironic, since he was satisfied that the forts could be too far aside to be efficient.

Job Pearsall responded to the decision for motion and constructed a log blockhouse and stockade at roughly this location. Fort Pearsall guarded the Northwestern Turnpike and its crossing of the South Department of the Potomac River.

As indicated by the picture above, this location is now a graveyard. The Indian Mound Cemetery was shaped in 1860 and has remained in operation ever since.

I occurred to {photograph} this attention-grabbing monument and later found that it marks the resting place of Ann Markee Van Meter Gibson (1805-1859). She was (i) the spouse of David Gibson, who donated the land for the cemetery, (ii) the daughter of Isaac Van Meter, and (iii) the nice granddaughter of Isaac Joost Van Meter, of whom we will be taught extra anon. I might discover comparatively little about Ann herself: She married at age 28 and had 6 kids, 4 of whom lived previous infancy. An article within the Hampshire Chronicle features a quote, “[Her] deeds stay after her—her charity was as candy as incense, every day provided.”

The cemetery is called for this historic Indian burial mound. It’s comparatively small in comparison with some others in West Virginia, but it surely has by no means been excavated, plowed beneath, flooded, or in any other case disturbed. Researchers from the Smithsonian Establishment consider the burial mound was constructed someday between 500 and 1000 AD (or CE, for those who insist) by Native Individuals of the Hopewell custom.

Again on the highway, following alongside the South Department of the Potomac, the BMW reveled within the twists, turns, and elevation adjustments whereas crossing the foothills of Little Mountain. Such roads abound in West Virginia, and those I encountered on my journey have been in excellent situation. The highest on the 335i disappeared as soon as the temperature reached 41 levels. It was an excellent day.

South Department River Street provided various stunning views overlooking the river, with Fairview Mountain within the distance. And sure, the drop-off right here is each bit as steep because it seems to be!

This farm was constructed within the South Department River Valley someday round 1750. The farmhouse began with a small log cabin, which continues to be there, inside the expanded constructing. Of most curiosity, nevertheless, is the 14-by-20 foot stone constructing on the precise. Not like most different buildings in Washington’s Chain of Forts, this one was manufactured from stone and has survived just about unchanged to the current day.

Fort Van Meter was in-built 1754 by Henry Van Meter. Its partitions are 15 inches thick, and the assorted vertical slits are rifle ports. It was too small to function a garrison for Washington’s Virginia Militia, but it surely provided safe shelter for Henry’s household and their neighbors.

So What Does “Glebe” Imply?

A mile previous Fort Van Meter is the city of Glebe, WV. In actuality, there may be nearly nothing left of Glebe, apart from a Presbyterian chapel…

…a few homes…

…and the Trough Normal Retailer, which is simply previous the home pictured above. The shop turns into a extremely popular place in the summertime, as a whole bunch of individuals hire canoes and kayaks right here to drift alongside the South Department of the Potomac.

The phrase “glebe” means a church-owned property, sometimes one akin to a farm that will generate earnings for a neighborhood minister. The city was named for such a property, which additionally served because the manse for the Episcopal (Church of England) minister. After the American Revolution, the Church of England was abolished within the U.S., the ministers have been ousted, and the “glebe lands” have been bought, with the proceeds required for use in help of the poor. Thus the unique glebe home right here turned the Hampshire County Poor Farm. It operated as such till 1945.

At Final, a Collectible Barn Discover (and a Hidden Mansion)

Instantly previous Glebe, the river valley narrows dramatically, with Mill Creek Mountain on the west and Sawmill Mountain on the east crowding the banks of the South Department. The ensuing 6-mile chasm is known as “The Trough” and is a favourite of canoeists (together with my dad, again within the day). (Picture courtesy of the West Virginia Regional Historical past Heart.)

After trying round Glebe, it was time to go to the (comparatively) city metropolis of Moorefield. By the best way, I can’t inform you how annoyed the 335i will get when it encounters a closed gate throughout a highway.

On the outskirts of Moorefield, I occurred throughout a dust highway known as “Outdated Meadows Farm Lane.” I’m congenitally unable to cross by a highway with a reputation like that, so I bumped alongside the lane for a half mile or so, crossed a really non-level set of railroad tracks—and out of the blue discovered myself in the midst of any individual’s farm. A really outdated farm, and seemingly deserted.

I couldn’t assist noticing this huge Farmall tractor in one of many sheds. It dwarfed the BMW. They have been made by Worldwide Harvester from 1939 to 1952 and are actually prized by collectors. This one is lacking its muffler—to not point out its 248 cubic inch engine. I used to be shocked to be taught that the Mannequin M was styled by Raymond Loewy, one among America’s foremost car designers. I shouldn’t have been shocked: he additionally designed buildings, radios, fridges, streamlined steam locomotives, and even the basic Coca Cola bottle.

However the largest shock was but to come back. As I used to be leaving the farm, I noticed this enormous brick mansion, which was hiding behind a row of tall timber. It was magnificent—and this was the again of the home, because it turned out. The formal entrance on the entrance was even statelier.

Subsequent analysis revealed that “The Meadows” was constructed by Benjamin Seymour “B.S.” McNeill in about 1850. There’s little or no info obtainable about this outdated mansion, though First Girl Eleanor Roosevelt mentions in her diary that she stayed right here in 1941. I hope The Meadows could be restored to its former glory.

Because it seems, there are a variety of McNeill mansions in and round Moorefield. The masterpiece of those properties is Willow Wall. I’d stopped right here years in the past on a bike journey with the intrepid Buzz (my faculty roommate and finest buddy; see Return to West Virginia). The U-shaped mansion was in-built 1811-1812 within the Georgian-Tidewater type and options 38 rooms. Willow Wall is broadly thought-about essentially the most spectacular mansion within the South Department Valley.

Earlier, between 1760 and 1770, Daniel McNeill had settled right here and constructed a big log cabin. To defend towards Indian raids, which have been nonetheless a typical prevalence, he added a log stockade round the home. Over time, because the Indian risk subsided and his household expanded, Daniel added massive log wings to the construction, forming a U-shape. One wing was used as a dormitory for his 7 sons and the opposite for his 6 daughters.

Daniel McNeill died in 1805, however the household companies continued to prosper. By 1812, your complete log advanced had been changed with the present brick mansion.

Following the Battle of Moorefield within the Civil Conflict, surgeons from each the Union and Accomplice Armies used Willow Wall as a hospital—concurrently. Like most plantations that trusted slave labor, Willow Wall fell into disuse after the Civil Conflict. Thomas B. McNeill acquired the property within the Nineteen Sixties and invested closely in its renovation. Robert and Kathleen Taylor purchased Willow Wall in 2000 and have continued its refurbishment.

One other McNeill mansion close to Moorefield is The Willows. I acquired inside 100 yards of it earlier than I used to be met with a flurry of “personal property” and “no trespassing” indicators. (These Evil Twins, Garmin and Google, had proven this lane as a public highway.) I might need gotten a take a look at the historic house from this close by vantage level—but it surely regarded somewhat shaky…

As I reluctantly retreated from The Willows, I used to be met by each rain and the marginally surreal look of a herd of cows lining the highway. They checked out me with what gave the impression to be sympathy.

A ultimate McNeill mansion was the birthplace of John Hanson McNeill, who turned well-known for his exploits through the Civil Conflict as chief of McNeill’s Rangers. However that shall be a separate story of warfare and rivalry, coming within the close to future.

Warning Doesn’t All the time Pay Off

Venturing into Moorefield, I discovered the 1876 house of P.W. Inskeep with out issue. That’s about all I might discover, nevertheless, since there’s a dearth of details about this place and its unique proprietor. As of 1985, the home was owned by Ruth Inskeep.

Though the day was cooling off, I used to be nonetheless having fun with the wind in my hair. The BMW is ideal for “historic touring”: Pleased to plod about in search mode, even happier to go flying from one vacation spot to a different.

Archeologists estimate that indigenous peoples lived in what’s now West Virginia so long as 14,000 years in the past. Lengthy earlier than white settlers arrived, Delaware Indians cleared the forests north of Moorefield and farmed the land. European settlers known as the realm Indian Outdated Fields, and it’s nonetheless often called Outdated Fields immediately. (Drawing courtesy of AG NETwest.)

As is well-known, the colonization of North America by European settlers didn’t sit properly with Native Individuals. Joost Jansen Van Meteren immigrated to America along with his dad and mom from the Netherlands. When he was 7 years outdated, Minisink Indians captured him, his mom, and 43 different girls and kids. Little Sarah DuBois and her mom have been additionally among the many captives. (Drawing courtesy of Heritage Historical past.)

I’ll let Scott Van Metre inform the story:

Nearly 30 years later, Joost and Sarah married and raised a big household. Their sons Isaac, Henry, and Jacob moved to what’s now West Virginia and settled there. Given their dad and mom’ expertise, the brothers have been properly acquainted with the risks of residing on this wilderness frontier space. At Indian Outdated Fields, Jacob was killed by Indians inside 2 or 3 years. Henry moved again to New Jersey. Isaac stayed and in 1744 constructed a fortified log cabin.

Through the French and Indian Wars, your complete western frontier of Virginia turned unsafe, and the nice majority of settlers fled again east of the Allegheny Mountains. Isaac and his household stayed. Isaac suggested his son Henry to construct a fort, ensuing within the stone Fort Van Meter that we encountered earlier. Isaac’s log cabin was adjoined by a stockade fence with blockhouses at every nook, changing into Fort Nice within the course of. Though the fort was totally garrisoned, it didn’t save Isaac. In December 1756, whereas he was working in his fields, he was killed and scalped by Indians. By some accounts, his spouse Annetje and daughter Catherine additionally met the identical destiny that day. (Drawing courtesy of The Chamberlain Story.)

A Mansion Restored

Isaac’s son Colonel Garrett Van Meter inherited the Fort Nice property, and he wasted no time in constructing a really robust brick residence. It was half above floor and half beneath, with thick partitions for protection. Garrett’s son Isaac married Elizabeth Inskeep in 1780, and the couple constructed the present Fort Nice brick mansion not lengthy after. The roof and chimney of the sooner brick fort could be seen on the far left (proven extra clearly within the historic picture). This “secure home” was joined to the stockade fort by a sequence of enclosed steps.

I used to be happy to see that the Fort Nice mansion had been largely restored following the devastating collapse of just about its total proper half. As chronicled in Half a Mansion is Higher than None, after I first visited right here in 2011 there was nothing left of that aspect of the home besides its roof and attic. Nonetheless, I couldn’t assist noticing now that the home windows on this aspect have been boarded over. Maybe the cash ran out earlier than the restoration could possibly be accomplished? I sincerely hope that the mansion can reclaim its full historic glory.

Isaac and Elizabeth Van Meter additionally donated the land for the Outdated Fields Assembly Home in 1812. To achieve the church, you drive about 900 toes by this pasture.

The assembly home is the second-oldest Methodist church in West Virginia. Its situation has waxed and waned over time, however it’s now rigorously maintained by the Duffey Memorial Church in Moorefield. If you happen to look rigorously within the historic picture (courtesy of West Virginia College), you’ll be able to see what was as soon as a doorway to the balcony; enslaved African Individuals might attend providers however needed to enter individually by outdoors steps to the balcony.

My 335i has conquered many a mountain cross, forest highway, cornfield, and even the Appalachian Path (briefly)—so negotiating this comparatively degree pasture was a breeze. And it stays (IMHO) one of many nicest-looking automobiles BMW has ever produced.

Keep in mind that feeling of being watched? As I used to be about to depart the assembly home, I felt it yet again. This time, the observer was a bit smaller than the sooner bovine crew.

Along with Fort Nice and Fort Van Meter, there are a minimum of three different notable Van Meter properties on this space. This distant view is about the one option to see the Buena Vista Farm. The home was in-built 1838, whereas the many-gabled barn was raised by the farm’s subsequent Leatherman homeowners in 1900. George and Miriam Leatherman are the present homeowners—and are domestically well-known for his or her pumpkins and different produce.

Col. Garrett Van Meter had a grandson additionally named Garrett, who in flip had three sisters who by no means married: Ann, Rebecca, and Susan. In about 1851, the sisters constructed a home for themselves outdoors of Moorefield close to their brother’s house. They named it Traveler’s Relaxation. Getting there provided this stunning view—and the chance to cross the downright scariest bridge I’ve ever encountered. At 4,000 kilos, the 335i isn’t any light-weight, however I figured that the native farm vans could be even heavier and so I pressed on, rattling the free boards ominously and anticipating at any second to finish up in Mudlick Run.

Luckily, the rickety bridge held, and I quickly encountered Traveler’s Relaxation. Rebecca Van Meter stored a diary all her life, though solely the fourth quantity is thought to exist. Outdated Fields in Peace and Conflict) chronicles life at Traveler’s Relaxation within the years main as much as, and through, the Civil Conflict. Capt. McNeill knew the sisters properly, and the Rangers would usually cease right here for meals and assist with their accidents.

I continued on, hoping to get a take a look at the outdated wood railroad bridge throughout the South Department. As standard, the BMW discovered various rutted grime roads on this journey. Its stiff MSport suspension isn’t precisely excellent for such circumstances, but it surely at all times manages to soldier by.

Earlier than reaching the Sycamore Bridge, I used to be stopped by a forbidding gate and signal proclaiming that solely residents have been permitted to proceed. Luckily, there was a possible alternate path to the bridge. Sadly, it regarded like this:

The low-water bridge over Anderson’s Run didn’t seem like an issue. However the tractor path on the opposite aspect regarded difficult for a automobile with solely 5 inches of floor clearance. Furthermore, the pool of water earlier than reaching the concrete bridge was simply 18 inches deep… To paraphrase Clint Eastwood, “A person’s acquired to know his (automobile’s) limitations.”

Subsequent time, I’m bringing a Jeep (or a minimum of a BMW X-something)!

On the best way again, I admired this outdated barn…

…and I acquired an unsatisfying picture of Garrett Van Meter’s home, which he in-built about 1832. It has an amazing view of all the encompassing countryside, however there was no option to lookup the steep financial institution and see the entrance of the home. (The outdated photographs present the outside from about 1999, earlier than the present homeowners Sam and Kelly Williams began their substantial renovations.)

After which I nonetheless had to return over the scary bridge. It doesn’t look as unhealthy from this angle, however the free boards nonetheless appeared flimsy and unreliable. I hadn’t observed the ford on the left on this picture. Perhaps that’s how the farm vans get throughout! Whistling the theme from “The Courageous Little Toaster,” I rumbled on over.

In Search of a Lawyer

West Virginia is justifiably well-known for its hills and mountains, and views like these are widespread. If you happen to look rigorously within the first image, you’ll see a protracted string of windmill mills alongside the highest of the mountain within the distance.

Views like this are additionally widespread in West Virginia: No guardrails, and the tops of timber poking up at eye degree from a nonexistent shoulder.

Alongside the best way throughout the mountain to Williamsport, I noticed this deserted home on a steep hillside. It virtually cried out to be explored, however a deep ravine and creek prevented entry. No matter footbridge was once there may be lengthy gone.

On the different finish of the dimensions, this stunning outdated mansion has withstood the check of time fairly properly. How such a big house acquired to be right here, within the Center of West Virginia Nowhere, is a thriller. From an actual property itemizing, I realized that the home has 9 bedrooms, 3 loos, 4,590 sq. toes, and was in-built 1876. Astonishingly, it final bought in 2011 for under $35,000.

Williamsport Maryland is well-known, on account of its location on the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. Williamsport West Virginia, alternatively, is true up there with Misplaced Metropolis, Antioch, and different near-ghost cities within the state.

I used to be on the lookout for the birthplace of John Robert (J.R.) Clifford, who was the primary African American to be admitted to the bar within the state of West Virginia. He was born in Williamsport in 1848 to free African Individuals Isaac and Mary Kent Clifford. When J.R. was 10, his dad and mom despatched him to Chicago Excessive College in Illinois. At 15, he enlisted within the Union Military and served till the top of the Civil Conflict. Afterwards, he graduated from Storer Faculty in Harpers Ferry, WV and was quickly instructing in Martinsburg, WV, later changing into the college’s principal.

J.R. Clifford began The Pioneer Press newspaper in 1882 and served as its editor and writer for the following 35 years. In 1898, he represented a schoolteacher named Carrie Williams in her discrimination swimsuit towards the Tucker County Board of Schooling. The Board had shortened the college time period from 8 months to five months for African American college students, whereas persevering with the 8-month time period for white college students. J.R. received the case for Mrs. Williams at each the county degree and earlier than the West Virginia Supreme Court docket. This case established the precise to equal instructional alternatives for black kids and equal pay for black academics—a full 56 years earlier than the nationwide Brown v. Board of Schooling civil rights determination. Clifford additionally labored with W.E.B. DuBois to assist type the Niagara Motion, which was a forerunner of the NAACP.

J.R. Clifford died in 1933 and is buried at Arlington Nationwide Cemetery. My query was, the place in Williamsport had he been born? Was it one of many fanciest homes, akin to this one?

Or maybe one thing way more modest? In observe, I’m fairly certain this was a one-room schoolhouse within the city. J.R. taught in Williamsport for a time—presumably proper right here. I by no means did be taught precisely the place he was born. Regardless, he was a really achieved particular person, and his achievements within the early civil rights efforts have solely not too long ago grow to be well-known.

Simply outdoors of Williamsport, I discovered this deserted church. And sure, the little buildings behind the church have been precisely what you suppose they have been.

A Bridge Too Tilted, and The place Not To Cease for Lunch

Again on the highway, I used to be looking for Antioch, WV, which makes Williamsport seem like a metropolis. It’s forward within the mountains, someplace.

Getting there concerned (but) one other slender, mountainside highway. Between the agricultural nature of this a part of West Virginia and the coronavirus, a minimum of there was hardly any oncoming site visitors.

Right here’s one other instance of “when issues go flawed.” Hearth was a typical prevalence when wood-burning stoves have been used for heating and cooking. To the precise, I believe that’s an early Nineteen Fifties Ferguson tractor.

Once I got here throughout this Nineteenth-century house, I initially thought there should be an Amish church assembly occurring (it was a Sunday, in any case). However then I noticed that every one the buggies have been in similar, brand-new situation—and there weren’t any horses round. I concluded that the property homeowners manufacture these buggies right here. (New buggies promote for $4,000 to $8,000 relying on choices—sort of like BMWs, minus the additional zero!)

I lastly reached Antioch and located the city’s 1787 gristmill. It was modernized in 1880 and transformed to a woolen mill in 1918.

Antioch was first settled by Samuel Barker Davis, who constructed the mill and lived in a log cabin close by. The cabin is alleged to nonetheless exist, and I wished to seek out it. An 1842 article quotes the cabin’s “dimenshuns as follers, 16 toes sq., 8 toes beneath jists, three logs above and outdoors chinbly six toes huge with one dure 6 by 3 and one winder.” The one clue I had was that it was positioned on the opposite aspect of Mill Creek. After nosing about, I found a promising path that ultimately led to a rickety footbridge throughout the creek.

The bridge was warped at a extreme angle and was lacking a number of of its planks. In my youthful days I might have chanced it… I might see a small wood constructing on the far aspect and surmised that it was in all probability Samuel’s cabin—though there was no signal of a winder or the chinbly.

A couple of miles north of Antioch, I rejoined the outdated Northwestern Turnpike. After the French and Indian Wars, Pontiac’s Rebel, and the American Revolution, many households used this freeway to journey additional west looking for new alternatives. Plenty of taverns and inns arose to satisfy the vacationers’ wants, together with the Vandiver home, which was constructed within the early 1800s. In comparison with the Nineteen Seventies picture, the shutters are gone, the doorway at left is closed in, and—most oddly—the unique chimneys have disappeared.

One other lodging sits only a mile or two additional east. This one was often known as Traveler’s Relaxation, though it had no connection to Ann, Rebecca, and Susan Van Meter. The unique a part of the constructing (on the left within the picture) was in all probability in-built 1810. The a lot bigger part was added in 1927. Peculiarly, there have been no doorways between the 2 sections. To get from the kitchen to the eating room, you needed to go outside by one door and again in by the opposite. At present, the constructing is owned by the Mineral County Historic Basis.

A peak by the home windows confirmed that the inside has been properly restored.

I might suppose twice, nevertheless, earlier than getting one thing to eat on the meals court docket out again—or utilizing the lavatory, for that matter!

Indentured No Extra

By late afternoon, the shadows have been lengthening, I’d eaten all my meals, and the low gas gentle was glowing balefully. I ended on the outdated Weaver’s Service Station for fuel and meals, totally anticipating uniformed attendants carrying bowties to come back speeding out to satisfy my each want, however nobody was there. An indication indicated that parking was prohibited—besides (no kidding) for Farmall tractors.

Heading again towards Romney, I discovered the 1790 Sloane-Parker Home. Richard Sloane was a talented weaver in Eire who sailed to the brand new United States shortly after the Revolutionary Conflict. He paid for the ship’s passage prematurely, solely to be billed once more when he arrived within the U.S. With out sufficient cash to pay a second time, and wishing to keep away from jail, he turned an indentured servant to David Van Horne. Inside months, in an applause-worthy show of audacity, he ran off with and married Charlotte Van Horne—the daughter of his grasp. (Portray courtesy of The Whys and Hows of Eloping.)

The Sloanes quickly established a weaving enterprise and constructed this stunning stone home alongside the Northwestern Turnpike. With assist from their 10 kids, the enterprise thrived. (Portray of weavers by A.W. Bayes, courtesy of Historical past of the Handloom .)

A Questionable Island

My ultimate photo-op was right here, alongside the South Department because it passes across the inauspiciously named Piss Pot Island. The solar was taking place, the temperature was dropping, and it was time to boost the hardtop. It had been a beautiful day of touring.

All through the journey, I noticed just a few individuals, all from a distance and most of them passing by in automobiles and pickups. I spoke to nobody, which made for a quiet, considerably lonely journey, however that was the objective—keep away from any chance of passing the coronavirus in any path. I’m pleased to report that I continued to really feel high quality after this journey, and I’m assured that no West Virginians have been harmed within the course of.

Rick F.